Matzu The tour guide that talks back

Self-guided on foot · Lisbon

Fernando Pessoa's Lisbon — the poet's haunts in Chiado

Coffee, verse and the old streets that shaped Portugal's greatest modern poet.

5 stops 5 languages Narrated live by Matzu
Hear Matzu at stop 1 · Casa Fernando Pessoa
0:57

The theme

The poet who became a crowd

Fernando Pessoa filled his writing with invented authors, each with a distinctive voice and, in several cases, a biography of their own. He supported himself through translation and business correspondence, while much of his literary work appeared only after his death in 1935. This walk starts at his last home in Campo de Ourique, continues to the cafés and bookshop of Chiado, then takes in Alfama’s rooftops from Santa Luzia before finishing at Martinho da Arcada by the river. Between a museum, a coffee and a view, you meet the city behind one of Portugal’s great modern writers.

Practical. Expect hills, including the climb to Santa Luzia, and wear shoes with good grip, especially when the paving is wet. Check Casa Fernando Pessoa’s current opening times and admission before setting out. Allow extra time if you want to visit the museum or browse at Bertrand. Both cafés are working businesses: check their hours and menus, and ask staff about viewing Pessoa’s commemorated table at Martinho da Arcada.

The route

5 stops

  1. 1
    Casa Fernando Pessoa
    Truque da Banana · CC BY 2.0

    Casa Fernando Pessoa

    The house where Pessoa spent his last fifteen years, now a museum to his many lives.

    R. Coelho da Rocha 18, 1250-088 Lisboa, Portugal

  2. 2
    A Brasileira do Chiado
    dirk.olbertz · CC BY 2.0

    A Brasileira do Chiado

    Pessoa's favourite cafe — and the bronze statue of him still waits for you at an outdoor table.

    R. Garrett 120 122, 1200-205 Lisboa, Portugal

  3. 3
    Bertrand Chiado bookshop
    Hugo Ferreira · CC BY-SA 4.0

    Bertrand Chiado bookshop

    The world's oldest operating bookshop, open since 1732 — and Pessoa's natural habitat.

    R. Garrett 73 75, 1200-203 Lisboa, Portugal

  4. 4
    Miradouro de Santa Luzia
    Jorge Franganillo · CC BY 2.0

    Miradouro de Santa Luzia

    A tiled terrace above Alfama where the whole poetic, melancholy city opens up at your feet.

    Largo de Santa Luzia, 1100-487 Lisboa, Portugal

  5. 5
    Café Martinho da Arcada
    Vitor Oliveira from Torres Vedras, PORTUGAL · CC BY-SA 2.0

    Café Martinho da Arcada

    Lisbon's oldest cafe, under the arcades of Praça do Comércio, where Pessoa had his own reserved table.

    Praça do Comércio 3, 1100-148 Lisboa, Portugal

Walk it

Fernando Pessoa's Lisbon — the poet's haunts in Chiado

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