Borges & the Tango Underground

Start at Café Tortoni, then follow six stops through a Buenos Aires of books, conversation and tango. The route connects the National Library with El Ateneo Grand Splendid, the former theatre that became a bookshop in 2000, before returning downtown to Centro Cultural Borges. From there, San Telmo and Caminito bring different sides of the city's dance culture into view. Borges directed the National Library from 1955 to 1973, but not from the present Recoleta building: this stop represents the institution, not his former office. Treat the route as a day to explore at your own pace, with time to look inside where access allows. Finish Caminito in daylight; if you want to dance later, choose a milonga separately rather than expecting one to begin when you arrive.

Practical. The six stops are spread across the city: consider a booked taxi or public transport for longer legs. San Telmo's antiques fair takes place on Sundays. Check the current programme and booking conditions of any milonga; a neighbourhood stop is not a ticket to a performance. Visit Caminito in daylight and stay in the main tourist area. Keep your phone and valuables secure. Check each venue before departure: the library and cultural centre do not necessarily share café or bookshop hours. No show, table, guided visit or admission is included.